2004 Honda Civic 1.7l Put Oxygen Sensor the Light Come on Again

September 21, 2013 Updated: June 21, 2020 By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo Commodity ID: 510

You can accurately test the alternator on your 1.7L equipped Civic DX, EX, or LX with a multimeter.

Not only that, information technology's easy and fast and in this tutorial, I'll show you how in a pace-by-step way.

Y'all tin find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar El Alternador (2001-2005 1.7L Honda Civic) (at: autotecnico-online.com).

Symptoms Of A Bad Alternator

Your 1.7L Honda Borough's alternator fulfills ii basic requirements: One is to accuse the battery then that you crank and starting time the auto each and every fourth dimension yous need to.

The other is to provide the electrical current for everything that requires it (think radio, blower motor, headlights, etc.), as you're driving down the route.

And then, when the alternator fails, you'll notice 1 or several of the following symptoms:

1. The accuse light (also known as the battery light) volition be shining dainty and bright on your Civic'south instrument cluster.
2. Whenever you lot plough on the headlights (nighttime driving), they glow very dim.
3. The car won't crank. It will only crank and first if you lot jump beginning your Civic.
4. The only way the car cranks and starts is if y'all accuse the battery.
5. The idle may go high when yous come to a end.
6. The A/C volition initially work so the PCM commands it to de-actuate (making you think you've got A/C compressor problems).

Examination i: Battery Voltage Test With Engine Running

The very first matter you'll do is to see what the bombardment'due south voltage is with your Borough's engine running (with a multimeter in Volts DC way of course).

If the alternator is defective and NOT charging the bombardment, your multimeter will annals a battery voltage of 12.v Volts or less.

If your Civic'southward alternator is working (and thus charging), your multimeter volition show a voltage of xiii.5 to 14.5 Volts DC.

At present, if the battery is completely dead on your Civic, you'll need to charge it up enough so that the machine can idle for about five to x minutes (while you perform the test).

These are the test steps:

1. ane

   Crank and start your Honda Civic and select Volts DC mode on your multimeter.

2. 2

   Probe the positive battery terminal with the red multimeter test atomic number 82.

   With the black multimeter test lead, probe the negative bombardment terminal on your Honda Civic'due south bombardment.

3. 3

   Your multimeter is gonna' register one of two possible readings and they are:

   1.) A steady 13.5 to 14.five Volts DC.

   2.) Or 12.5 Volts that will subtract the longer the engine stays running.

4. 4

   Put an electric load on the alternator to further confirm that it's either charging or not charging.

   You can do this past turning on every accessory possible (inside the vehicle). For instance: Plow on the A/C or heater on high, turn on the windshield wipers, turn on the headlights, turn on everything and anything that uses electricity inside and exterior of the vehicle.

5. 5

   Your multimeter will show you i of ii things (every bit you plough on all of this stuff):

   i.) The multimeter will register a nice and steady xiii.five to 14.five Volts DC no thing what gets turned on.

   ii.) It will register 12.5 V DC and this voltage volition subtract more and more as you turn on stuff within your Honda vehicle.

OK, allow'south translate your multimeter test results:

CASE i: Your multimeter registered 13.five to 14.five Volts. This voltage examination result tells y'all that the alternator is working (charging the battery).

No farther testing is required, since this multimeter test result eliminates the alternator on your Honda Civic equally bad.

Now, if you're having to jump-commencement the motorcar to get it going, this test outcome points to a bad bombardment or a parasitic bleed. A parasitic drain is tech-speak for something staying on (usually within the car, for example: a dome-light) and draining the battery while the engine is off.

CASE two: Your multimeter registered a voltage that steadily dropped downward to 9 Volts. This is a articulate indication that your Honda Borough'south alternator IS NOT charging the battery.

Replacing the alternator at this point usually solves around 90% of the No Charge conditions on any 1.7L Honda Civic around the world. That'south right, yous could stop testing here and say: 'The alternator is fried' and be done simply..

I suggest two more easy tests to be absolutely sure information technology is bad. For the first test of the two, go to: TEST 2: Checking The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Cable.

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Source: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1